To choose a men’s hat, start with three criteria: the shape that flatters your face, the material suited to the season and the exact measurement of your head. Everything else — colour, hatband, brand — refines the style. At JJ Hat Center, a luxury hatter, we help men every day who are torn between a fedora, a flat cap or a Panama: here is the method we recommend.
How to choose a men’s hat: three questions to ask yourself
Before looking at any model, answer three simple questions. Where will you wear it? In town, in the countryside, at a formal occasion or when travelling, the use determines the shape. When? The season dictates the material. With what? A hat should complement your wardrobe, not contradict it.
A good hat is a lasting investment: a well-made felt hat can be worn for decades and refreshed with steam. Better to buy one right piece than three approximate ones.
Choosing the shape to suit your face
The hatter’s rule is one of balance: the shape of the hat offsets the shape of the face. A long face benefits from a slightly wider brim and a moderate crown; a round face will favour a taller crown and clean lines. We explore these pairings in detail in our guide Which Hat for Which Face?.
Keep proportion in mind as well: the brim width should stay in harmony with your shoulders. Too wide a brim overwhelms a slim figure; too narrow a brim makes a broad build look cramped.
The main families of men’s hats
The fedora and the felt hat: timeless elegance
The fedora, with its pinched crown and soft brim, is the benchmark of the urban men’s hat. It pairs with an overcoat, a suit or a casual jacket. Discover our selection of felt hats: whether hare fur or wool felt, quality felt is recognised by its soft, dense hand. To learn how to wear one, read our Hat Guide.
The flat cap: relaxed sophistication
The flat cap is the most versatile of all. In tweed, wool or cotton, it suits town and country alike. In our shop, it is in fact the number one type of headwear, accounting for more than two items in five — around 62 % more in demand than the fedora, which ranks second.
The Panama: summer lightness
Woven from toquilla straw, the Panama hat shields you from the sun without weighing you down. It is the natural companion to linen or a light-coloured suit, from May to September.
Felt, wool, straw: choosing the material for the season
- Autumn and winter: fur felt or wool felt, and woven wool for caps; these materials insulate and cope with light rain.
- Spring and summer: straw, linen or cotton, which are airier, with a brim that protects the face.
- Year-round: a felt fedora in a neutral shade remains the most versatile choice to begin with.
Brands: where to find a quality hat
Construction makes the difference: a leather or twill sweatband, a sewn hatband, felt of even thickness. Among the houses we present, Stetson is JJ Hat Center’s number one brand, with more than seven items in ten, while Borsalino, the benchmark Italian house, takes second place. Two complementary worlds: American heritage on one side, Italian finesse on the other.
Size: the most common mistake
A hat that is too small presses on the forehead and ends up left in the wardrobe. Measure your head with a soft tape measure, then consult our guide Which Hat Size Should You Choose? before ordering.
Caring for your hat so it lasts
Store a hat resting on its crown or in a hat box, never crushed. Brush felt in the direction of the nap, let it dry in the open air if it gets wet, and keep it away from radiators. These simple habits preserve the shape and drape of the felt for years.
Our hatter’s advice
If you were to buy only one hat: a grey or brown felt fedora, classic in shape, in exactly the right size. It outlasts trends and goes with most outfits. Only then consider a flat cap for everyday wear and a Panama for summer.
Frequently asked questions
How do I choose the size of a men’s hat?
Measure your head with a soft tape measure, one finger’s width above the eyebrows and ears, then refer to the size chart for the model. If you are between two sizes, choose the larger one and adjust with a hat sizing tape: a hat that is too tight leaves a mark on the forehead.
Which men’s hat should I choose for the city?
The felt fedora and the wool flat cap are the two safe choices: the first dresses an overcoat or a suit, while the second pairs as well with a casual jacket as with a tweed blazer.
Which material should I choose: felt or straw?
Felt suits autumn and winter, straw — Panama in particular — spring and summer. A quality hat in each material lets you cover the whole year with elegance.
Can a men’s hat be worn every day?
Yes, provided you choose an understated shape, the right size and a colour that harmonises with your wardrobe. A flat cap and a fedora in a neutral shade fit effortlessly into everyday outfits.
