The history of the Panama hat actually begins far from Panama. It starts on the coast of Ecuador, where artisans have woven toquilla straw for centuries into hats so fine they could pass for silk. Its name stems from a 19th-century misunderstanding, reinforced by its widespread presence during the construction of the Panama Canal. At JJ Hat Center, a luxury hatter, this hat remains one of the most elegant symbols of summer.
A history of the Panama hat that begins in Ecuador
As early as the 17th century, people in the coastal regions of Ecuador, particularly around Montecristi and Jipijapa, were hand-weaving straw hats from the fibres of the toquilla palm. The weaving is done early in the morning or late in the evening, when the humidity in the air keeps the fibre from breaking. This patient craft, passed down from generation to generation, produces the finest straw hats ever made.
These hats first travelled to nearby ports before conquering South America and then the rest of the world. Yet it was one specific event, thousands of kilometres from Ecuador, that gave them the name by which they are known today.
Why is a hat born in Ecuador called a “Panama hat”?
At the turn of the 20th century, the colossal Panama Canal project drew tens of thousands of workers, constantly exposed to the equatorial sun. Many adopted these lightweight straw hats imported from Ecuador, bought locally in Panama, where they passed through before being exported. For travellers and visiting journalists, the place of purchase was easier to remember than the country of origin: the “Panama hat” entered everyday language, despite its true Ecuadorian identity.
1906: the portrait that made the Panama a legend
The hat’s worldwide recognition came in 1906, when American President Theodore Roosevelt was photographed wearing a Panama during a visit to the canal construction site. The picture travelled through the international press, and almost overnight the Ecuadorian hat became a sought-after accessory on every continent, associated with adventure, power and relaxed elegance.
The golden age of the Panama hat, from Paris to Hollywood
Even before the canal episode, the Panama had already enjoyed its first moment of European fame: shown at the 1855 Exposition Universelle in Paris, it immediately won over the imperial court. The 20th century then made it a true classic. From the beaches of the Riviera to the racecourse and the film set, the Panama accompanied gentlemen through every warm season. Its lightness, breathability and understated elegance made it a fixture of the most refined wardrobes, long before synthetic materials appeared.
The secret of a genuine Panama: patient weaving, entirely by hand
A true Panama is recognised first by its weave: the finer and tighter the toquilla strands, the more precious the hat, with some exceptional pieces requiring several months of work by a single artisan. A quality Panama should be able to be rolled without cracking, a sign of supple, properly worked straw. For a complete overview of the manufacturing process, our article How Is a Panama Hat Made? walks you through every step, from weaving to finishing.
The Panama hat today at JJ Hat Center
True to its calling as a luxury hatter, JJ Hat Center carries on this Ecuadorian heritage with a selection of Panamas for men and women, which you can discover in our Panama Hats collection. Among our customers’ favourites are models such as the Vermaron Traveller Panama hat, designed to accompany the elegant traveller (also featured in our Traveller Hats selection), and the more classic William Panama hat. The Panama belongs to the wider family of our straw hats and also features in our Women range, for a refined summer look. Would you like to try one on before making your choice? Our shop on Boulevard Saint-Germain in Paris welcomes you for a personal fitting. To complete your outfit, you will also find our advice in the article How to Wear a Hat.
FAQ — Your questions about the history of the Panama hat
Does the Panama hat really come from Panama?
No. It originates from Ecuador, where it has been woven since the 17th century. Its name comes from the fact that it passed through Panama before being exported to the rest of the world.
Why did the Panama hat become famous in 1906?
Because American President Theodore Roosevelt was photographed wearing a Panama during a visit to the Panama Canal construction site, which greatly popularised the hat around the world.
How can you recognise a good-quality Panama?
By the fineness and regularity of its weave: the tighter the toquilla straw strands, the finer and more precious the hat. It should also be able to be rolled without the straw cracking.
Is the Panama hat only worn in summer?
Summer is indeed its natural season, thanks to the lightness and breathability of toquilla straw, ideal for protecting you from the sun while remaining elegant.
Where can you buy a quality Panama hat in Paris?
At JJ Hat Center, the luxury hatter on Boulevard Saint-Germain, which offers a selection of Panamas for men and women within its dedicated collection.
